Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Nippon Saniku Gakuin 01 Japan

Dateline: Nippon Saniku Gakuin, Chiba Prefecture, Japan: September 22, 2011—Although I have lived in America the majority of my life, and in Alabama far longer than I ever could have dreamed, I have only experienced one hurricane. That would be Opal in October 1995. During that one the Red Cross used me as a shelter manager in Georgia. Can’t even remember one while stationed in Key West from ’75-’77. But I have experienced many typhoons while flitting bout the Pacific. I remember our ship trying to outrun one between Luzon and Okinawa in 1974. Still think about the poor sailor who was washed off the fantail late one night and never found. That was Thanksgiving day. I was the Damage Control Officer for Camp Hansen, Okinawa, when a powerful typhoon blew through a few weeks later and was back on Okinawa exactly 30 years later when the news was saying, “This typhoon is the largest in 30 years.” Caught them both.

Why this discussion of typhoons? One just blew through here yesterday. It was very bad in some areas and the wind here was furious. The college where I have been teaching hangs tenuously to the side of a pine and bamboo shadowed mini-mountain and gazes learnedly over a patchwork of rice fields below. The wind would thunder against the buildings, pounding on the windows like an irate williwaw. I was in a special office for guest speakers and so was secure and working away. Then my translator came in and asked if my windows were closed down in my guest quarters.

I like windy days with their freshness and power. I like storms with their booming voices and pyrotechnics. But to forge out into a dark maelstrom weighing not much more than the flotsam flying past and carrying an umbrella the size of a large pizza, is not my idea of a fun way to spend an evening. The rain wasn’t coming down, it was coming across. The tortured umbrella bent valiantly to its task, literally. It was an interesting walk.

When I arrived at my quarters, two windows were found to be open. One had let in a lot of rain which fell mainly on the used linens of team members who had already departed. They were slated to be washed so nothing lost. The other window was right over the full length of my bed. Visions of a pre-potty training sleeping experience slogged through my head. God is good; there was not one drop of rain on my bed and very few on the windowsill. I was amazed but I don’t know why because my Father is always doing things like this for me. I grabbed a towel, put it in a bag and swam back up stream to the office. The towel was to wrap around my wet body which my work continued.

Before this typhoon it felt as if I were home, at least heat ad humidity-wise. It has been nearly insufferable since arrive in Japan with the heat. But this typhoon drove it all away and since then it has been very cool to the point that blankets feel great at night.

I was at Nippon Saniku Gakuin for nearly two weeks. The first week we held a Phase 2 school for the students who had taken the Phase 1 last year. Here we get more into common diseases, their prevention and treatment. It was a very good session. Then most of the team left and it was just me and my translator for the second week, or three days thereof. But they were long days. I was slated to teach five 90-minute classes each of three days to the 4th year nursing students. The fifth class each evening was practicum, which was a relief. I had all females with but one male the first day. They were very interested, doing something I don’t always see here. They looked at the presentation with obvious interest and understanding. Problem is, I like to ask questions as part of the learning process. Looking into their bright and awake faces, I would ask a question like, “What would you do is a person was playing tennis on a hot day and suddenly stopped sweating and passed out?” Basic nursing 101-type question it would seem. They all smiled politely, checked their notes and smiled some more. One would whisper an attempt at an answer so quietly the other students would turn interestedly to try to hear what profound bit of wisdom one of their own had offered. A bit of whispering would ensue before the volume was high enough for my translator could catch it. It was suggested that by asking questions I was only frustrated myself and intimidating the shy students. But we had a good time of it.

The first night I took the one male student to my quarters to demonstrate the hydrotherapy technique I had taught them in the 4th class. It was the hot foot bath and I decided to give was better than to receive so the young man received a good treatment. Now, he spoke no English and I speak no Japanese so we had quite a time of it. That was the last I saw of him until we were waiting for the bus the day we left. The college van drove us to the bus stop and when we disembarked, he was walking up the road to the same bus stop. Being a holiday, the first day of autumn is a holiday here, he was apparently taking off for Tokyo. But when he saw us, he decided there was something he needed back at the Seven Eleven store and turned on his heels and retreated. He did not reappear until our bus arrived but assiduously avoided eye contact with me or Sheila, the translator.

He was a very Japanese looking young man. Thick dark hair, very almond eyes, totally insouciant. As I was giving his that treatment, I thought back 70 plus years and wondered at how things had changed. I love the Japanese people but always wonder if this one or that lost a loved one, a relative, in the war. I think of my own uncle Gordon, lost flying out of Guadalcanal in ’43. I wonder at the little lanes and the young men who left their homes forever way back then. And then I write.

The Sons of War

They knelt upon tatami mats

And drank their Saki down;

Tomorrow they would leave their homes

To serve the flag and crown.

They left their mountain hamlet towns,

They left the rice-green plain;

Those precious sights, they knew somehow,

Would not be seen again.

Honshu gave her finest youth,

Kyushu offered more;

Hokkaido and Shikoku both

Consigned their sons to war.

Mother’s wept, as mothers do,

While watched inscrutable

The fathers, as their sons, their heirs,

Fed Ares’ crucible.

And swelling past the rising sun,

Beyond the beckoning deep,

The tide of war crashed on the shore

With thunderous marshaling beat.

The Pearl in the Pacific felt

The first of conflict’s waves;

And ushered souls, too soon, into

Two thousand watery graves.

Then from Pacific’s coasts across

To Atlas’ shores they rose;

The finest youth, the nation’s blood,

Marched bold into war’s throes.

Two worlds of youth, of boys-cum-men,

Met on broad fields of fire;

And fought to gain the victory

To which both would aspire.

Alas, but one who struggled there

Could gain the victor’s prize;

But win or lose, it cost the same;

The blood of countless lives.

Long after war was swept away,

And friends were made of foes,

Still lie the bones ‘neath sea and sod,

Still stand the cross’ed rows.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Moldova to Japan

Dateline: Kamikawa, Japan; September 11, 2011—Last time I posted I was in Bulgaria and that was a long time ago. I have a few comments in this post covering Eastern Europe and a few comments at the beginning on Japan. For a few of you, knowing I am in Japan, you might be thinking, “Did he do Fuji-san?” Well, that was my sincere intention. The official climbing season ends the end of August so I booked a ticket to leave the USA on 29 August. Arrive the 30th, climb the 31st, be back in Kawikawa the 1st. Yes, that was the plan. The plan didn’t work out.

Running is something my body has to do. Back in California everything was going great, not an ache or a pain anywhere. One afternoon my run took me to some railroad tracks. They are defunct and running along each side are paths horses use, as well as bikers and other runners. It was over 100o but the low humidity makes heat hardly noticeable. At one point the trail meandered off into the dry California weeds and thorns, and they can be meaner than a union boss at a Labor Day speech. So, I went onto the tracks, running the ties. It isn’t all that hard, just have to adjust the stride a bit. But somehow the track troll grabbed my right ankle and I went down hard against the rails. The left knee brace saved it from a decent shredding but couldn’t help my running pants. The left elbow received four little holes and the left shoulder made hard contact with the rail as did my ribs resulting in a minor costochondral separation. Oh yes, and the right ankle was badly sprained. Bummer.

It was a long, slow walk back to the home where I was staying and I immediately iced the ankle and the ribs. For a couple of days I was in exquisite pain but still I kept the possibility in the back of my mind that Fuji-san might still feel my tread. With the simple remedies the ankle was feeling better in a couple of days. The ribs were/are a different story. Seems they were just beginning to hurt the first few days. This all happened about August 23 and I still can’t sleep on my back for the pain in the ribs. But still Fuji-san loomed above the Kanto Plain, tantalizing, beckoning, teasing. Surely I could tough it out. But apparently God doesn’t want me climbing it at this time for at the very time I was arriving in Japan, so was Typhoon Talas. It was a bad typhoon, as if there might be a good one. Over 33 known dead and many more missing. So, the most climbing I have done here is climbing into and out of bed. This is good because jetlag takes its toll.

Tomorrow we leave for Nippon Sani-ku Gau-ken, the college where we will be conducting one of our schools and where I will be lecturing the nursing students. The college is located in the same prefecture as Tokyo but it is up in the hills and very beautiful. Hopefully it will be high enough to escape some of the humidity and heat that is cooking us down here in the flatlands. More on this as it happens. Now to catch up just a bit.

Dateline: Bacau, Romania; June 3, 2011—As is my wont, I am far behind in my travelogues and now, as I sit here on this gently swaying train threading its way from Bacau to Bucharest through promising fields and forested hills, I reflect on a wonderful journey. I have always loved well-laid fields, the quilt of the earth. The bright yellows of the canola blossoms, the verdant green of spritely corn, the various hues of brown. There is the new turned earth, bearing its ebony soul for reception of life-bearing seed. There is the sienna hay, much of which has been laid low by the sinewed, tan arms of the farmer and his scythe. And there are the dusty khaki lanes traversing field and forest. It evokes the happy memory of driving across the Allegany and Blue Ridge Mountains and through the Shenandoah Valley in the mid-fifties. Yes, very happy memories. And today I relive them a half-century later and thousands of miles distant. Oh yes, and punctuating the motley tapestry of spring’s offering are the blood red poppies, nodding gravely as we tremble past.

Bacau was the city but Podis was the place of my sojourn. Podis is a new lifestyle center 300 km north of Bucharest set back in the hills of the sub-Carpathian Mountains. Many of the workers there were former students of mine at Herghelia, the center near Tergu Mares. Now, I have been privileged to serve in many schools and centers around the world, but this one had a special luster. All the workers love Podis, feeling called and privileged for the opportunity to work there. It is not a school so there are no students “marching unwillingly to school.” No strong, domineering personalities, no malingerers, no complaining. It was family and I was made a beloved member. Even the patients, coming from every walk of life, embraced me. It reminded me of Psalm 68:6 “God sets the solitary in families.…” Indeed it was a family.

Each day I would teach the staff principles of health and practical applications. Then I would have meetings with the patients. A number of the patients decided to give up the evening meal and as a diversion, I was asked to deliver a lecture to them during that time. It seemed as if I had at least half of the patients, some still chewing their food they had wolfed down prior to coming to the class. Even with the anchor dragging need to use a translator, everyone seemed to enjoy the meetings.

The director of Podis pointed to the forest rising up behind the center and told me to pick a place; they would build me a house if I could come and live and work there. I have often thought that if I were to be stranded in a country, Moldova or Romania would be good places to be. In these countries, the people have learned of necessity to grow their own food, to gather their own fuel, to draw their own water; in other words, to live close to the bone and still thrive. When the US infrastructure goes south and Walmart SuperCenters close, you have a prescription for anarchy. And I believe this time is coming and not always with stealthy step.

Herghelia, Romania; April 29-May 25—It had been two years since I taught at Herghelia. The day I arrived, after and all-night bus trip from Chisinau, Moldova, I was being shown around the campus which was being readied for the Outpost Centers International Leadership Retreat May 16-22. Herghelia had bought a large circus tent which they were retrofitting as a conference center. It was quite impressive. Inside there was a ring of steel poles supporting the roof and some of those were posing an obstacle as they stood ramrod straight across the front of the speakers’ platform. They had devised a plan to angle certain of the poles inward to a large wooden beam about eight feet above the floor in the middle of the tent. For some reason they decided this wouldn’t work so were taking the metal poles down. I was helping and all was going happily along until they came to the last pole. A man was pounding on the pole to knock it loose and when that was accomplished, the beam was also loosed from its perch. I ducked and started to run out of the way but I was too late. And the ducking only gave the beam extra time to build up momentum. It caught me just behind the right ear and across the back of my head knocking me to the ground, skinning an elbow and knee, and sending me into two weeks of dizziness.

After teaching for two weeks, we enjoyed seeing friends from around the world as the OCI retreat unfolded. From meetings in a tent to meals in another, we enjoyed a week without rain and showers of blessings.

Sarata Noua, Moldova; April 14-28, 2011—It was good to be back in Moldova again. Biser drove me back to Bucharest and I caught a train to Chisinau, Moldova. I decided to splurge and take a first class berth. It cost just over $60 which wasn’t much over the next lower option, and for an all-night journey, it is well worth it. The compartment I was assigned had two beds although I as the only one occupying, and it was bordering on opulent. It was a most comfortable ride. As we rattled through the gray dawn, evidence was everywhere that it had been raining a very long time. The sodden fields gave no evidence of verdant spring. The ubiquitous geese complained from a sea of choices and farmers gazed from kitchen windows at the quagmire before them. I found out upon my arrival it had been raining for eight days straight, and that after a long and very cold winter.

Serghei Costas met me at the Chisinau train terminal and soon we were jolting along the pock-marked road to Sarata Noua. Moldova has some of the worse roads I have traveled, and that says a lot. And previously, almost the whole length of the drive there had been walnut trees lining the highway. They formed a natural corridor, especially in the summer. It was really quite impressing and took one’s mind off the constant pounding his body was taking on the winter-scarred road. But now, by some fiat from Chisinau, the trees are being cut down, leaving the landscape even more denuded, if that is possible. Moldova has lost most of its forests and now even the farmland is being overtaken by vineyards. Wine will come next, and then the baleful results of its intoxicating and poisoning influence.

My time in Sarata Noua was rich, as usual. We traveled up north to give a series of meetings at various churches. In one church I was answering a question about someone having an allergy and explaining about the number one food allergen in the world, which is milk from a cow. Turns out most of the members of the church were dairy farmers. Their employment made my explanation no less valid, but did require a bit of tact and humor. When it was all over we were all friends and I was invited back to live amongst them any time I wanted. They are really beautiful people.

There is a family at Sarata Noua with a special story. The father and husband was a very successful businessman, having a number of lucrative ventures allowing them to live very comfortably. He is just one of those types who can make things happen. So, he decides to immigrate to the USA and really strike it big. Things were going fine but before a year was up, he returned with his family to Moldova. The reason? He felt he was losing his children to the influences of America. I am afraid the exhibition of our freedoms is overshadowed by the fecundity of our excesses. So now he and his family live an extremely simple life and the children and thriving in a simple, natural environment.

And there is one more family at Sarata Noua that makes it imperative for me to return. Stas, Adriana and Yana, and soon another addition to this beautiful family. Both were my students a couple years ago and now work with the school there in Moldova. The whole campus was built from a failed youth camp being constructed by the Soviets. When the iron curtain fell, everything stopped. All of the buildings were decrepit by the time the school moved in. These people are miracle workers. There was one building, a rude, dark row of rooms filled with coal, dirt, rubble or assorted junk. A wrecking ball seemed the only solution for this eyesore. Well, now Stas and family live in the end two units which have been turned into the nicest little apartment I have seen. It is noting short of miraculous. Tiled walls, wooden floors, lovely walls. It is amazing what a bit of work, ingenuity and building materials can do. I look forward to returning this winter.